Where to stay in Hakone: best areas, ryokan and onsen

Hakone is a mountain hot spring region about 90 minutes from Tokyo. It is small on the map but spread across valleys, a lake and a volcano, linked by a loop of trains, a cable car, a ropeway and boats. Where you sleep decides how smooth that loop feels, so it is worth choosing carefully.

Hakone-Yumoto

The gateway town where the Odakyu Romancecar from Tokyo arrives. It has a small shopping street, riverside onsen and the widest range of prices.

• Good for: a short stay, budget and mid-range ryokan, easy arrival with luggage
• Watch out for: you are at the bottom of the loop, so reaching the lake or ropeway takes time

Gora

Gora sits at the top of the mountain railway and the start of the ropeway. It is the most convenient base for sightseeing, with the Hakone Open-Air Museum nearby, and has many ryokan and onsen hotels, from simple to luxurious.

• Good for: couples and families who want to do the loop at their own pace
• Watch out for: it is a steep walk from the station to some hotels. Ask your ryokan about a pick-up

Miyanoshita

A quiet hillside village with some of Hakone's grandest old hotels. It feels like the Hakone of old, with gardens, antique details and slow evenings.

• Good for: honeymoons, special occasions and anyone who wants a refined stay
• Watch out for: few restaurants outside the hotels, so plan on dinner at your hotel

Sengokuhara

A high plateau with open views, grassland that turns golden in autumn and a more peaceful feel. It has some of Hakone's best ryokan with private baths, as well as art museums.

• Good for: a quiet retreat, onsen lovers, travellers who enjoy hiking and views
• Watch out for: you will rely on buses, so check the timetable if you do not have a car

Lake Ashi and Moto-Hakone

On the lake shore, with views across the water and the red torii gate of Hakone Shrine. On clear mornings, you may see Mount Fuji from the water's edge.

• Good for: Fuji views, the sightseeing cruise and a more scenic setting
• Watch out for: fewer onsen ryokan than Gora or Yumoto, and weather that can hide the views for days

How a ryokan stay works

Many visitors choose Hakone for their first ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. It is part of the experience, so it helps to know what to expect.

• Meals are included. Rates are usually per person and include a multi-course kaiseki dinner and a Japanese breakfast. Arrive by 4 or 5pm so you do not miss dinner.
• You sleep on futons laid out on tatami floors by staff while you are at dinner. Wear the yukata robe provided around the inn.
• The onsen is the main event. Public baths are separated by gender and you bathe without clothing, after washing at the showers. See our etiquette guide for the rules.
• Tattoos: some baths refuse visible tattoos. Choose a ryokan with a private bath, or check the policy before you book.
• Private baths. Many ryokan have private baths you can book by the hour, and some rooms have their own open-air bath, which is perfect for couples and families.
• Dietary needs. Tell the ryokan at least a few days ahead. See our special diets guide.

Getting there and around

• From Tokyo: the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku takes about 85 minutes to Hakone-Yumoto. You can also take the shinkansen to Odawara and change.
• Hakone Free Pass: sold by Odakyu, it covers the loop of trains, cable car, ropeway, cruise and buses for two or three days. Check the current price and whether the loop pays for itself on your route.
• Luggage: send your big suitcases ahead with luggage forwarding and carry only a small bag to the ryokan.
• Volcanic gas: the Owakudani area, with its steaming vents, is sometimes closed and the ropeway can be suspended. Check the status before you go.

Booking tips

• Weekdays are cheaper. Weekends, holidays, cherry blossom and autumn leaves can book out months ahead.
• Fuji views are best in autumn and winter mornings. In summer, clouds often hide the mountain.
• Two nights beat one. A single night means arriving, dinner, breakfast and leaving, with little time left to enjoy the onsen or the views.
• Pair it with a day at Fuji. See our guide to Mount Fuji and Hakone.

Opening hours, prices and transport details change. Check the official sources before you travel: Hakone Tourist Association, official Hakone information.

Part of our guide hubs: Where to Stay in Japan.