Ginzan Onsen: The Snowy Hot Spring Town Lit by Gas Lamps
How to visit Ginzan Onsen, the wooden hot spring town in Yamagata: the best season, staying overnight, the rules for day visitors and getting there.
Quick answer
- What it is: a small hot spring town of wooden ryokan lining both banks of the Ginzan River.
- Famous for: multi-storey Taisho era inns, gas lamps and snowy winter nights.
- Day visitors: in recent winters, evening access has been limited for people not staying overnight.
- Time needed: 1 to 2 hours on a day trip, or one night to see the lamps properly.
- Best time: December to February for snow, or a quiet weekday in any season.
As darkness falls in winter, the gas lamps of Ginzan Onsen flicker on and the snow-covered wooden inns begin to glow. It looks like a scene from an old film, and it is one of Japan's most photographed hot spring towns.
Why Ginzan Onsen is a wonder
Ginzan means silver mountain. The town grew up near a silver mine that thrived several centuries ago, and when the mine closed the hot springs kept the town alive.
Most of today's three and four storey wooden inns date from the Taisho and early Showa eras, from the 1910s to the 1930s. Their carved balconies and painted signs face each other across the narrow river.
Beyond the main street
Walk past the inns to the Shirogane Falls, a 22 metre waterfall at the top of the town, and follow the path towards the old silver mine tunnels.
There are small public baths and a free footbath by the river, so even short visits can include a soak.
What to see
| Spot | What you see | Time (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Main street | Wooden ryokan facing each other across the river | 30 minutes |
| Shirogane Falls | A 22 metre waterfall at the edge of town | 15 minutes |
| Silver mine path | Forest trail to the old mine tunnels | 45 minutes |
| Footbath | A free riverside footbath | 15 minutes |
| Evening lamps | Gas lamps lit along the river at dusk | Best from sunset |
When to go
- Winter: snow on the rooftops and glowing lamps, but also the biggest crowds and visitor limits.
- Spring and autumn: fresh greenery or autumn leaves, with far fewer visitors.
- Evening: the lamps are lit at dusk, and staying overnight is the best way to enjoy them.
- Early morning: overnight guests can walk the snowy street almost alone.
Our tip: Book a night in one of the ryokan many months ahead. Rooms are few, and guests can enjoy the lamp-lit street long after the day visitors have left.
Getting there
- From Tokyo: take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Oishida Station, roughly 3.5 hours.
- From Oishida: local buses run to Ginzan Onsen in about 40 minutes. Some ryokan offer pickups for guests.
- Winter access: in recent winters day visitors have needed a reserved shuttle from a visitor centre outside town in the evenings, so check the latest rules.
Visiting respectfully
- Check the current winter rules for day visitors before you go. In the 2024 to 2025 season, evening entry required a booked shuttle and late evening entry was limited to overnight guests.
- Do not enter inns or block doorways for photos.
- Keep tripods out of narrow walkways and bridges.
- Keep noise down at night, as guests are relaxing in the ryokan.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit Ginzan Onsen as a day trip?
Yes, but in recent winters evening access for day visitors has been limited and has needed a reserved shuttle. Daytime visits have been open to all.
When does it snow at Ginzan Onsen?
Usually from December to March, with the deepest snow in January and February.
How do you get to Ginzan Onsen?
Take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Oishida Station, then a bus of about 40 minutes.
Can you bathe at Ginzan Onsen without staying overnight?
Yes. Small public baths and a free footbath are open to visitors, though hours are limited.
Dotonbori
Neon signs, giant crabs and the best street food in Japan along an Osaka canal.
We check this guide regularly. Prices, hours and rules in Japan can change, so confirm with the official sources below before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.