Higashi Chaya: Kanazawa's Old Teahouse District and Gold Leaf
How to visit the Higashi Chaya district in Kanazawa: historic teahouses, gold leaf crafts, the best time to go and pairing it with Kenroku-en.
Quick answer
- What it is: a historic geisha district in Kanazawa, created in 1820.
- Famous for: wooden teahouses with fine lattice fronts and gold leaf crafts.
- Gold leaf: Kanazawa produces almost all of Japan's gold leaf.
- Time needed: 1 to 2 hours.
- Best time: early morning or early evening, when the street is calm.
In Higashi Chaya, rows of two-storey teahouses face each other along stone-paved streets, their delicate wooden lattices glowing in the evening light. Inside, shops sell everything from sweets to ice cream covered in gold leaf.
Why Higashi Chaya is a wonder
The ruling Maeda clan set up Higashi Chaya in 1820 as an entertainment district where geisha performed for wealthy guests. It is now one of the best-preserved teahouse districts in Japan.
Shima, an original teahouse from the 1820s, is open to visitors and shows the elegant guest rooms upstairs, where music and dance once filled the evenings.
A city of gold
Kanazawa has made gold leaf for centuries, and today it produces almost all of Japan's supply. Craftsmen beat gold into sheets so thin they are almost see-through.
In Higashi Chaya you can try a gold leaf workshop, see a storehouse covered in gold, and buy soft serve wrapped in a whole sheet of gold leaf.
What to see
| Spot | What you see | Time (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Higashi Chaya main street | Lattice-fronted teahouses on stone paving | 30 minutes |
| Shima teahouse | An original 1820s teahouse open to visitors | 30 minutes |
| Gold leaf shops | Gold leaf crafts and a golden storehouse | 30 minutes |
| Asano River | Riverside walks near the district | 20 minutes |
| Kenroku-en | Wonder No. 12, about 20 minutes away on foot | 1.5 hours |
When to go
- Early morning: the street is quiet before shops open.
- Early evening: lanterns light the teahouses.
- Winter: snow on the rooftops and fewer crowds.
- Spring: cherry blossom along the nearby Asano River.
Our tip: Book a gold leaf workshop and decorate a chopstick or small tray. It takes about an hour and makes a beautiful, light souvenir.
Getting there
- To Kanazawa: the Hokuriku Shinkansen reaches Kanazawa from Tokyo in about 2.5 to 3 hours.
- From Kanazawa Station: buses reach the district in about 10 minutes.
- On foot: Kenroku-en and Kanazawa Castle are about 20 minutes away.
Visiting respectfully
- Do not enter private teahouses or take photos of people without asking.
- Do not eat while walking along the main street.
- Keep tripods out of the narrow street when it is busy.
- Keep noise down in the evening, as some teahouses still entertain guests.
Frequently asked questions
Is Higashi Chaya free to visit?
Yes. Walking the district is free, and some teahouses charge a small fee to enter.
Can you see geisha in Higashi Chaya?
Geisha still perform here, but sightings on the street are rare. Look for public performances in Kanazawa.
Why is there so much gold in Kanazawa?
Kanazawa has made gold leaf for centuries and produces almost all of Japan's supply.
Is Higashi Chaya near Kenroku-en?
Yes. It is about 20 minutes away on foot.
Dogo Onsen
A grand wooden bathhouse over a hot spring said to be 3,000 years old.
We check this guide regularly. Prices, hours and rules in Japan can change, so confirm with the official sources below before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.