Kumano Kodo: Walking Japan's Ancient Pilgrim Trails
How to walk the Kumano Kodo, the thousand-year-old pilgrimage routes through the mountains of Wakayama: the best route for first-timers, the three grand shrines and Nachi Falls.
Quick answer
- What it is: a network of pilgrimage trails linking the three Kumano Grand Shrines in the forested Kii Mountains.
- Famous for: mossy stone steps, roadside oji shrines, Nachi Falls and the red pagoda of Seiganto-ji.
- Status: part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range, listed in 2004.
- Time needed: a half-day taster walk, or 2 to 4 days for the classic Nakahechi route.
- Best time: spring and autumn for mild walking weather and fewer leeches and storms.
For over a thousand years, emperors, samurai and ordinary farmers have walked into the steep, misty mountains of the Kii Peninsula to reach the Kumano shrines. You can still follow their footsteps today, on stone paths worn smooth by centuries of pilgrims.
Why the Kumano Kodo is a wonder
Kumano was seen as a land where gods lived in waterfalls, rocks and trees. Pilgrims came to visit the three Kumano Grand Shrines: Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha, together known as Kumano Sanzan.
The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage routes in the world on the UNESCO list, alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain. The two are twinned, and walkers who complete both can earn a special Dual Pilgrim credential.
Choosing your route
Most visitors walk the Nakahechi, the old imperial route that crosses the mountains from Takijiri-oji towards Hongu Taisha. It is well signposted, with small family-run inns in villages along the way.
If you only have one day, walk the final stretch into Hongu, or climb the Daimon-zaka slope, a staircase of mossy stones under huge cedars that leads up to Nachi Taisha and the falls.
Highlights along the way
| Spot | What you see | Time (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Takijiri-oji | The traditional start of the Nakahechi route | Start of day 1 |
| Hongu Taisha | The head shrine of Kumano, set among tall cedars | 1 hour |
| Oyunohara | A giant torii gate in the rice fields near Hongu | 30 minutes |
| Daimon-zaka | A mossy cedar-lined stone stairway | 1 hour |
| Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls | Japan's tallest single-drop waterfall, about 133 metres | 1.5 hours |
When to go
- Spring: fresh green forest, comfortable temperatures and cherry blossom in early April.
- Autumn: cool, clear walking days and colourful leaves from November.
- Summer: hot, humid and wet, so start early and carry plenty of water.
- Winter: quiet trails and crisp air, but short days and some icy sections.
Our tip: Book a luggage transfer between inns so you can walk with a light daypack. Spaces in the small village guesthouses fill up months ahead in spring and autumn.
Getting there
- From Osaka: limited express trains run from Shin-Osaka to Kii-Tanabe Station in a little over 2 hours. Local buses connect Kii-Tanabe with Takijiri-oji and Hongu.
- To Nachi: trains run along the coast to Kii-Katsuura, then buses climb to Daimon-zaka and Nachi Taisha.
- Planning help: the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau runs an English booking site for inns and transfers.
Walking etiquette
- Stay on the marked trail and carry out all of your rubbish.
- Bow before passing through torii gates and keep your voice low at shrines.
- Check bus times before you set out, as some mountain buses run only a few times a day.
- Carry rain gear, a torch and a paper map in case of fog or a change in plans.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Kumano Kodo?
The classic Nakahechi route from Takijiri-oji to Hongu Taisha is around 38 km and usually takes 2 to 3 days. Extensions to Nachi and Hayatama add another day or two.
Do you need to be very fit?
You need reasonable fitness for steep climbs on stone steps, but no technical skills. Short sections like Daimon-zaka suit most visitors.
Can you do the Kumano Kodo without a tour?
Yes. The Nakahechi is well signposted in English, and you can book inns and luggage transfers yourself.
What is the best short walk?
The final section from Hosshinmon-oji to Hongu Taisha, or the Daimon-zaka climb to Nachi Falls.
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