Matsumoto Castle: The Black Crow Castle of the Japan Alps
How to visit Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan's finest original castles: its history, climbing the keep, the best views and getting there.
Quick answer
- What it is: a castle with an original wooden keep dating from the late 1500s.
- Famous for: its black walls, which earned it the nickname Karasu-jo, the Crow Castle.
- Status: a National Treasure, and one of only twelve castles in Japan with an original keep.
- Time needed: 1 to 1.5 hours, including the climb inside the keep.
- Best time: clear days in spring or winter, when the snowy Alps rise behind it.
Where Himeji is a white heron, Matsumoto is a crow. Its black-lacquered walls reflected in the moat, with snowy mountains behind, make one of the most dramatic castle views in Japan.
Why Matsumoto Castle is a wonder
Matsumoto's main keep was built in the 1590s, at the end of Japan's age of civil wars. It is the oldest surviving five-tiered, six-storey castle keep in the country.
Unusually, it was built on flat land rather than a hill, relying on its moats and walls for defence. Inside, the original wooden beams, gun ports and stone-dropping windows are still in place.
War and moon viewing
The castle complex shows two different eras. The main keep and its turrets were built for battle. A later moon-viewing turret, added in more peaceful times, has open sides for watching the moon rise.
In the late 19th century the castle was nearly sold off and demolished. Local citizens campaigned to save it, and it has been carefully preserved ever since.
Visiting the castle
| Spot | What you see | Time (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Moat and red bridge | The classic view with reflections | 15 minutes |
| Main keep | Original wooden floors and very steep stairs | 45 minutes |
| Moon-viewing turret | Open sides with views across the grounds | 10 minutes |
| Castle grounds | Gardens and cherry trees around the moat | 20 minutes |
When to go
- Spring: cherry blossoms around the moat, usually in mid April.
- Winter: snow-capped mountains behind the black castle.
- Autumn: red leaves and crisp mountain air.
- Early morning: arrive before opening to queue less for the keep.
Our tip: The stairs inside the keep are as steep as ladders in places. Wear socks with good grip and keep your hands free, as you remove your shoes before climbing.
Getting there
- From Tokyo: the JR Azusa limited express runs from Shinjuku to Matsumoto in about 2.5 to 3 hours.
- From Nagoya: the JR Shinano limited express takes around 2 hours.
- From the station: the castle is a 15 to 20 minute walk through the town centre.
Tips for your visit
- You remove your shoes before entering the keep and carry them in a bag.
- The stairs are steep and narrow, and not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs.
- Queues to enter the keep can be long on weekends and holidays.
- Explore Nakamachi and Nawate streets nearby for old storehouses and cafes.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Matsumoto Castle black?
Its walls are covered in black-lacquered wooden panels, giving it a dark, dramatic look and the nickname Crow Castle.
Is Matsumoto Castle original?
Yes. Its main keep dates from the 1590s and is one of only twelve original castle keeps in Japan.
How long do you need at Matsumoto Castle?
About 1 to 1.5 hours, including queuing and climbing the keep.
Can you go inside Matsumoto Castle?
Yes. You can climb all six floors of the keep, though the stairs are very steep.
Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani
Wild monkeys soaking in a steaming hot spring in the snow.
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