Tsumago and Magome: Walking the Old Nakasendo Road
How to hike between Tsumago and Magome on the Nakasendo trail: the route, luggage forwarding, where to stay and getting there.
Quick answer
- What it is: two preserved post towns on the Nakasendo, an old road between Edo and Kyoto.
- Famous for: dark wooden inns and shops, and the forest trail between the towns.
- The hike: about 8 km, taking 2.5 to 3 hours at an easy pace.
- Time needed: one full day, or stay overnight in a traditional inn.
- Best time: spring and autumn for walking.
In the Kiso Valley, a stone path climbs through cedar forest, past waterfalls and old farmhouses, between two villages that look much as they did when samurai and merchants walked this road centuries ago.
Why Tsumago and Magome are a wonder
The Nakasendo, or road through the mountains, linked Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period. Travellers rested at post towns like these, staying in inns and changing horses.
Tsumago was one of the first places in Japan to be preserved by its residents in the 1960s and 1970s. They agreed not to sell, rent or destroy their buildings, and power lines are hidden to keep the old look.
The walk between the towns
The path from Magome climbs to Magome Pass, then winds down through forest to Tsumago. Many walkers start in Magome because the overall route is more downhill that way.
Along the way, stop at the old Tateba teahouse, where volunteers sometimes serve free tea to hikers.
Along the trail
| Spot | What you see | From Magome (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Magome | A hillside post town on a stone-paved slope | Start |
| Magome Pass | The highest point of the trail | 40 minutes |
| Odaki and Medaki falls | Twin waterfalls in the forest | 1.5 hours |
| Tateba teahouse | An old wooden teahouse on the trail | 2 hours |
| Tsumago | A beautifully preserved post town | 2.5 to 3 hours |
When to go
- Spring: fresh green forest and mild walking weather.
- Autumn: red and gold leaves along the trail in November.
- Summer: shady forest, but humid, so carry water.
- Winter: quiet and sometimes snowy, with fewer services.
Our tip: Use the luggage forwarding service between the Magome and Tsumago tourist offices in season, so you can walk with only a daypack. Check the drop-off times the day before.
Getting there
- To Tsumago: take the JR Chuo Line to Nagiso Station, then a bus or a 1 hour walk.
- To Magome: take the JR Chuo Line to Nakatsugawa Station, then a bus of about 25 minutes.
- From Nagoya: limited express trains reach Nakatsugawa in about 1 hour.
Trail tips
- Bears live in the area, so ring the bells placed along the trail.
- Wear proper walking shoes, as some sections are steep and slippery.
- Carry cash, as small shops may not take cards.
- Keep to the trail and respect private homes in the villages.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the walk from Magome to Tsumago?
About 8 km, which takes around 2.5 to 3 hours.
Which direction is easier?
Magome to Tsumago, as it has more downhill overall.
Can you send luggage between Tsumago and Magome?
Yes, a luggage forwarding service runs between the tourist offices in season.
Can you stay overnight?
Yes. Both towns have traditional inns, called minshuku and ryokan.
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