Geisha Culture: Facts, Myths and How to Visit Respectfully
Who geisha and maiko really are, how they train, the myths to forget, and the respectful ways to see them, from Kyoto's spring dances to a private dinner, plus the Gion photo rules.
Quick answer
- Who they are: highly trained artists in dance, music and conversation who entertain at private gatherings.
- In Kyoto: they are called geiko, and apprentices are called maiko.
- Best way to see them: Kyoto's public dance performances, mostly held in spring.
- Private evenings: a dinner with a maiko or geiko can be arranged through hotels or tour companies.
- Respect: never chase, block or touch them, and obey the photo bans in Gion's private lanes.
Geisha are one of the most recognisable symbols of Japan, and one of the most misunderstood. They are professional artists who spend years mastering traditional dance, music and the art of hosting. Seeing them is special, as long as it is done with respect.
Who are geisha?
The word geisha means person of the arts. Geisha entertain guests at teahouses and restaurants with dance, songs, shamisen music, drinking games and conversation. The tradition dates back to the 18th century.
- Maiko: an apprentice in Kyoto, usually in her late teens, with long trailing obi sashes, elaborate hairstyles and colourful kimono.
- Geiko: a fully qualified geisha in Kyoto, with simpler, more elegant kimono and often a wig.
- Hanamachi: flower towns, the districts where geisha live and work.
- Okiya: the house where maiko live and train.
Myths and facts
| Myth | Fact |
|---|---|
| Geisha are courtesans | No. Geisha are artists and hosts. The courtesans of old Japan, called oiran, were a different profession. |
| Every woman in a kimono in Gion is a geisha | Most are tourists in rented kimono. Real maiko have distinctive hair, white make-up and trailing obi. |
| Geisha no longer exist | Hundreds still work, mainly in Kyoto and Tokyo, with new apprentices every year. |
| Anyone can book a geisha easily | Teahouses work on introductions. Visitors usually go through a hotel or specialist tour. |
Kyoto's five geisha districts
- Gion Kobu, the largest and most famous.
- Gion Higashi, a small district nearby.
- Pontocho, along a narrow lane by the Kamo River.
- Kamishichiken, the oldest, near Kitano Tenmangu Shrine.
- Miyagawacho, south of Gion along the river.
Outside Kyoto, geisha still work in Tokyo districts such as Asakusa, Kagurazaka and Shimbashi, and in Higashi Chaya in Kanazawa.
Respectful ways to see geisha
- Spring dances: each Kyoto district holds a public dance season, mostly in spring. The Miyako Odori in Gion in April and the Kamogawa Odori in Pontocho in May are the best known. Tickets are sold to everyone.
- Autumn dances: the Gion Odori is held by Gion Higashi in November.
- Dinner with a maiko: hotels, ryokan and specialist companies can arrange a dinner or tea with a maiko or geiko, often with an interpreter.
- Gion Corner: a short show in Gion introducing tea ceremony, music and dance, including a maiko dance.
- Teahouse experiences: some teahouses in Kanazawa's Higashi Chaya are open to visitors in the daytime.
Etiquette and the Gion photo rules
- Never chase, surround or block a maiko or geiko. They are usually on their way to work.
- Do not touch them or their kimono, or ask for selfies.
- Since 2024, private lanes in Gion are closed to tourists, with signs warning of a fine of up to 10,000 yen.
- Photos on public streets are allowed, but use common sense and keep your distance.
- Keep your voice down in the hanamachi. People live and work there.
Our tip: Want the look for yourself? Maiko makeover studios in Kyoto will dress you in kimono and make-up for a photo session. Read our etiquette guide too.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a geisha and a maiko?
A maiko is an apprentice geisha in Kyoto. After about five years of training she becomes a geiko, a fully qualified geisha.
Where can I see geisha in Kyoto?
At the spring dances such as the Miyako Odori, at Gion Corner, or at a private dinner arranged through a hotel or tour company.
Can I take photos of geisha in Gion?
On public streets, yes, but keep your distance. The private lanes of Gion are closed to tourists and photography.
Are geisha courtesans?
No. Geisha are professional artists and hosts trained in dance, music and conversation.
We check this guide regularly. Prices, rules and services in Japan can change, so confirm with the official sources below before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.
