Staying in a Ryokan: What to Expect, Costs and Etiquette

A night in a ryokan is one of the most memorable things you can do in Japan. You slow down, eat a beautiful dinner, soak in a hot spring and sleep on a futon on tatami mats. Here is how it works, so you can relax and enjoy it.

A typical ryokan stay

1. Arrive in the afternoon, usually from 3pm. Take off your shoes at the entrance and put on slippers.
2. Staff show you to your room and often serve green tea and a sweet.
3. Change into the yukata, a light cotton robe, and the jacket provided in cooler months.
4. Visit the baths before dinner.
5. Dinner is served at a set time, often 6pm or 7pm, in your room or a dining room.
6. While you eat, staff lay out futons on the tatami.
7. Bathe again late at night or early in the morning, when the baths are quiet.
8. Breakfast is usually between 7am and 9am, and check-out is around 10am.

Kaiseki dinner

Dinner is often the highlight. Kaiseki is a series of small, seasonal courses: sashimi, simmered dishes, grilled fish or beef, tempura, rice, soup, pickles and dessert. It takes one to two hours.

• Tell the ryokan about allergies or diets when you book. Last-minute changes are hard.
• Vegetarian and halal meals are possible at some inns, but always ask first.
• Drinks are charged separately and added to your bill.

Ryokan etiquette

• Never walk on tatami in slippers. Leave them at the edge of the room.
• Wear the yukata left side over right. Right over left is for the dead.
• Use the separate toilet slippers only in the toilet.
• Follow the usual onsen rules in the shared baths.
• There is no need to tip. If you want to say thank you, a small note is kind, but never expected.
• Be on time for dinner. The kitchen prepares each course for your slot.

Our tip: New to hot springs? Read our onsen guide before you go.

How much does a ryokan cost?

Prices are per person, so a couple pays double. Weekends, holidays and peak seasons cost more. Local hotel and hot spring taxes are added on top.

Where to stay in a ryokan

• Onsen towns such as Hakone, Kinosaki, Ginzan, Yufuin and Kusatsu.
• Kyoto, especially Gion, Higashiyama and Arashiyama. See our Kyoto area guide.
• Rural areas such as Shirakawa-go, where farmhouse inns offer simple, unforgettable stays.
• Temple lodgings at Koyasan, with vegetarian meals and morning prayers.

Booking tips

• One or two nights is ideal. The routine is the same each night.
• Check whether the price includes dinner and breakfast.
• Look for rooms with a private bath if you have tattoos or prefer privacy.
• Many inns have strict cancellation policies, sometimes from 7 to 14 days before.
• Some ryokan cannot take very young children, and some rooms sleep a maximum of two.

We check this guide regularly. Prices, rules and services in Japan can change, so confirm with the official sources below before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.