Onsen Guide: Etiquette, Tattoos and the Best Hot Spring Towns
How to use a Japanese onsen without worry: step-by-step etiquette, what to do if you have tattoos, private baths for families and couples, and the best hot spring towns to visit.
Quick answer
- The basics: wash before you get in, bathe naked, keep your towel out of the water.
- Tattoos: many public onsen still refuse them. Private baths and tattoo-friendly towns are the easy answer.
- Best onsen towns: Hakone, Kusatsu, Beppu, Kinosaki, Ginzan, Dogo and Noboribetsu.
- Cost: public baths cost about 500 to 1,500 yen. A ryokan with its own baths is the full experience.
- Avoid: bathing straight after drinking alcohol or a heavy meal.
Japan sits on thousands of hot springs, and soaking in one is among the most relaxing things you can do here. The rules look strict at first, but they all come down to one idea: the bath is shared, so keep it clean and calm.
Onsen etiquette, step by step
- Take off your shoes at the entrance and use a locker.
- Go to the right side. Red curtains, or the character 女, are for women. Blue curtains, or 男, are for men.
- Undress fully in the changing room and leave your clothes in a basket or locker.
- Take only a small towel into the bathing area.
- Sit on a stool at the washing station and wash your whole body and hair with soap. Rinse well.
- Tie up long hair so it does not touch the water.
- Ease into the bath slowly. Keep your small towel out of the water, folded on your head or on the side.
- Keep your voice low. No swimming, splashing or photos.
- Dry off with the small towel before you walk back into the changing room.
Our tip: Drink water before and after bathing, and keep each soak to 10 or 15 minutes. Hot water at 40 to 44C is tiring.
Onsen and tattoos
Tattoos have long been linked with organised crime in Japan, and many public baths, gyms and pools still ban them. Attitudes are softening, especially in tourist areas, but you should still check before you go.
- Small tattoos can often be covered with a skin-coloured patch. Some onsen sell them at the front desk.
- Private baths, called kashikiri-buro or kazoku-buro, can be booked by the hour, and tattoos are not a problem.
- Many ryokan rooms come with their own open-air bath.
- Some towns are known for being welcoming. All seven public baths in Kinosaki Onsen accept tattoos, and Beppu has many tattoo-friendly baths.
- Look for the words tattoo OK on websites, or ask at reception before paying.
Types of baths
- Onsen: a bath using natural hot spring water, often with minerals said to help the skin and muscles.
- Rotenburo: an open-air bath, best in snow or autumn colour.
- Sento: a neighbourhood public bath using heated tap water. Cheap and very local.
- Kashikiri-buro: a private bath you reserve for your group, ideal for families, couples and anyone shy.
- Ashiyu: a free foot bath, often found in onsen town streets and at stations.
- Konyoku: a mixed bath. Rare today, and some allow towels or bathing wraps.
The best onsen towns
| Town | Why go | Easy from |
|---|---|---|
| Hakone | Close to Tokyo, Fuji views, many day-use baths | Tokyo, 90 minutes |
| Kusatsu | One of Japan's most famous springs, with a steaming central field | Tokyo, about 3 hours |
| Kinosaki | Seven public baths, yukata strolls along a willow-lined canal | Kyoto, 2.5 hours |
| Ginzan | Wooden inns along a river, magical in snow | Yamagata |
| Dogo | One of Japan's oldest onsen, with a historic bathhouse | Matsuyama |
| Beppu | Eight hot spring areas, steam everywhere, sand and mud baths | Fukuoka, 2 hours |
| Yufuin | Small, pretty and relaxed, with views of Mount Yufu | Fukuoka or Beppu |
| Noboribetsu | Hokkaido's best-known spring, beside a volcanic valley | Sapporo, 1.5 hours |
| Arima | An ancient spring with gold and silver waters | Osaka or Kobe, under 1 hour |
Onsen with children
- Children are welcome in most onsen. Young children can usually go into either side with a parent.
- Explain the rules first, and keep an eye on them, as the water is hot and the floor slippery.
- A private bath is often the most relaxed option for families.
- Swim nappies are not allowed in the main baths.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to be naked in an onsen?
Yes, in almost all onsen. Swimwear is not allowed, though a small towel is fine for walking around.
Can I go to an onsen with tattoos?
Sometimes. Many public baths ban tattoos, but private baths, ryokan rooms with their own bath and tattoo-friendly towns such as Kinosaki are good options.
Can I use an onsen on my period?
It is best to avoid shared baths. A private bath or in-room shower is the usual choice.
What is the best onsen town near Tokyo?
Hakone is the easiest, about 90 minutes from Shinjuku. Kusatsu and Kinugawa are further but very popular.
We check this guide regularly. Prices, rules and services in Japan can change, so confirm with the official sources below before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.
