Shikoku travel guide

Shikoku sits just across the Seto Inland Sea from Okayama and Hiroshima, but it feels a world away from the big cities. Most of the island is mountains and forest, its towns are relaxed and friendly, and it is home to the 88-temple pilgrimage that people have walked for over a thousand years.

It is best for travellers who are happy to slow down. Trains are less frequent than on Honshu, but the scenery from the window, especially along the Iya and Oboke gorges, is some of the best in Japan.

Top things to do in Shikoku

1. Cross the vine bridges of the Iya Valley. Deep gorges, thatched villages and bridges woven from mountain vines in Tokushima. See Iya Valley.
2. Bathe at Dogo Onsen. A hot spring in Matsuyama said to be over 3,000 years old, with a grand wooden bathhouse at its heart. See Dogo Onsen.
3. Stroll Ritsurin Garden. One of Japan's finest landscape gardens, in Takamatsu, with ponds, pines and a tea house. See Ritsurin Garden.
4. Watch the Naruto whirlpools. Tidal whirlpools churning under a huge bridge, best seen from a boat at spring tide. See Naruto whirlpools.
5. Cycle the Shimanami Kaido. A 70 km bike route across islands and bridges from Onomichi to Imabari in Ehime. See Shimanami Kaido.
6. Take a boat to Naoshima. The art island in the Seto Inland Sea, reached by ferry from Takamatsu. See Naoshima.
7. Walk part of the 88-temple pilgrimage. You do not need to walk all 1,200 km. Many visitors spend a day or two visiting a few temples near Tokushima or Matsuyama.
8. Climb to Kotohira-gu. A hilltop shrine reached by 785 stone steps, a classic Kagawa day out.

Areas to know

When to go

Spring (late March to April) and autumn (October to November) are ideal, with mild weather for walking and cycling. Mid-August brings the Awa Odori in Tokushima, one of Japan's biggest dance festivals, but the island is hot and humid in summer. Winters are mild on the coasts and cold in the mountains.

Getting there and around

Most visitors arrive by train from Okayama, which is on the Sanyo Shinkansen. The Marine Liner crosses the Seto Ohashi bridge to Takamatsu in about 1 hour. Limited express trains continue to Matsuyama (about 2.5 to 3 hours from Okayama), Kochi and Tokushima, passing the Oboke gorge on the way to Kochi. Shikoku also has small airports at all four prefectural capitals.

The All Shikoku Rail Pass covers JR trains across the island. For the Iya Valley and the more remote coasts, a rental car or a day tour is much easier than relying on infrequent buses.

Where to stay

Takamatsu and Matsuyama have the most hotels and the best transport links. For something special, stay in a renovated thatched farmhouse in the Iya Valley, a ryokan at Dogo Onsen, or a temple lodging (shukubo) along the pilgrimage route.

What to eat

• Sanuki udon, thick chewy wheat noodles from Kagawa, often under ¥500 a bowl
• Katsuo no tataki, seared bonito, Kochi's signature dish
• Tai meshi, sea bream cooked with rice, in Ehime
• Mikan oranges and juice from Ehime
• Sudachi, a small green citrus from Tokushima squeezed over everything

A sample 5-day route

1. Day 1: Okayama to Takamatsu. Ritsurin Garden in the afternoon and an udon dinner.
2. Day 2: Day trip by ferry to Naoshima, or to Kotohira-gu.
3. Day 3: Train to Oboke, then into the Iya Valley for a night in a farmhouse.
4. Day 4: Continue to Matsuyama. Evening bath at Dogo Onsen.
5. Day 5: Matsuyama Castle, then cycle or bus part of the Shimanami Kaido towards Onomichi and Hiroshima.

Shikoku pairs well with Hiroshima and Miyajima. Use our itinerary maker to plan the rest of your trip.

Opening hours, prices and transport details change. Check the official sources before you travel: Shikoku official tourism site.