Tohoku travel guide
Snowy hot spring towns, cliffside temples, samurai streets and some of Japan's best autumn colour, all within three hours of Tokyo by bullet train.
Quick answer
- Region: the six prefectures of northern Honshu: Aomori, Iwate, Akita, Miyagi, Yamagata and Fukushima
- Gateway: Sendai, about 1.5 hours from Tokyo by shinkansen
- Ideal stay: 4 to 7 days
- Best for: onsen, nature, autumn leaves, winter snow and quiet traditional towns
Tohoku is the part of Japan most first-time visitors skip, and that is exactly why repeat travellers love it. It is a land of mountains, deep forests, rice fields and old castle towns, where hot spring villages feel unchanged in a century and you can walk a famous temple trail without a crowd.
The Tohoku, Yamagata and Akita Shinkansen lines make it surprisingly easy to reach. You can be in Sendai in about 90 minutes from Tokyo, and in the far north at Aomori in around three hours.
Top things to do in Tohoku
- Climb to Yamadera. Around 1,000 stone steps lead through cedar forest to temple halls clinging to a cliff above the valley. See Yamadera.
- Stay a night in Ginzan Onsen. A tiny hot spring town of wooden ryokan along a river, magical under snow and gas lamps. See Ginzan Onsen.
- Cruise Matsushima Bay. Pine-covered islands scattered across the bay near Sendai, counted among Japan's three most scenic views. See Matsushima.
- See Hirosaki Castle in blossom. One of Japan's most beautiful cherry blossom spots, with petals filling the moat in late April. See Hirosaki Castle.
- Walk the samurai district of Kakunodate. Black-walled samurai houses under weeping cherry trees. See Kakunodate.
- Visit Chuson-ji in Hiraizumi. A UNESCO temple complex famous for its Golden Hall. See Chuson-ji.
- Hike Oirase Gorge. A riverside trail of waterfalls and mossy rocks, at its best in October. See Oirase Gorge.
- Ride the ropeway to the Zao snow monsters. In mid-winter, frost-covered trees turn into strange white figures. See Zao snow monsters.
- Step back in time at Ouchi-juku. An old post town of thatched-roof houses in Fukushima. See Ouchi-juku.
Areas to know
| Area | Why visit |
|---|---|
| Sendai and Matsushima (Miyagi) | The region's biggest city, beef tongue restaurants and the bay islands. A good first base. |
| Yamagata | Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen and Zao. Easy from Tokyo on the Yamagata Shinkansen. |
| Akita | Kakunodate, Lake Tazawa and remote hot springs such as Nyuto Onsen. |
| Aomori | Hirosaki Castle, Oirase Gorge, the Nebuta festival and apples everywhere. |
| Iwate | Hiraizumi's temples and the rugged Sanriku coast. |
| Fukushima | Ouchi-juku, the castle town of Aizu-Wakamatsu and mountain lakes. |
When to go
Late April to early May is cherry blossom season, a few weeks later than Tokyo. Early August is festival season, with the huge lantern floats of Aomori Nebuta, Akita Kanto and Sendai Tanabata. October brings spectacular autumn leaves. Winter (December to March) is snowy and cold, ideal for onsen towns, skiing and the Zao snow monsters, but some mountain roads and trails close.
Getting there and around
From Tokyo, the Tohoku Shinkansen reaches Sendai in about 1.5 hours and Shin-Aomori in about 3 hours. Branch lines run to Yamagata (about 2.5 hours from Tokyo) and to Kakunodate and Akita (about 3 to 4 hours). The JR East Pass (Tohoku area) covers these routes and is often good value if you visit for several days.
Trains link the main towns, but buses are slower and less frequent in the countryside. For remote onsen and lakes, a rental car gives much more freedom, and roads are quiet outside winter.
Where to stay
Use Sendai as a base for the south, then move north. The real treat is a night or two in a traditional ryokan with its own hot spring, at places like Ginzan Onsen, Nyuto Onsen or the villages around Zao. Book well ahead for winter weekends and festival dates.
What to eat
- Gyutan, grilled beef tongue, Sendai's signature dish
- Kiritanpo, pounded rice grilled on cedar sticks and cooked in hot pot, from Akita
- Wanko soba, tiny bowls of noodles served until you say stop, in Iwate
- Imoni, a taro and beef stew eaten at autumn riverside picnics in Yamagata
- Aomori apples and apple sweets
- Excellent local sake from almost every prefecture
A sample 5-day route
- Day 1: Tokyo to Sendai. Afternoon cruise around Matsushima Bay and a gyutan dinner.
- Day 2: Train to Yamadera and climb the steps. Continue to Ginzan Onsen for the night.
- Day 3: Back via Yamagata, then north to Kakunodate's samurai district.
- Day 4: Continue to Hirosaki for the castle and old town, or to Oirase Gorge in autumn.
- Day 5: Shinkansen from Shin-Aomori back to Tokyo in about 3 hours.
Use our itinerary maker to fit Tohoku around the rest of your trip.
Opening hours, prices and transport details change. Check the official sources before you travel: Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization.
Frequently asked questions
Is Tohoku worth visiting?
Yes, especially on a second trip to Japan or for travellers who love nature, hot springs and quiet traditional towns. It sees far fewer foreign visitors than Kyoto or Tokyo.
How many days do you need in Tohoku?
Four to five days covers a loop of Sendai, Matsushima, Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen and Kakunodate. A week lets you add Aomori, Oirase Gorge and Hiraizumi.
Is the JR East Pass worth it for Tohoku?
Usually yes if you make a loop from Tokyo, because the shinkansen fares to Sendai, Yamagata, Akita and Aomori add up quickly. Check the current price against your route.
When is the best time to visit Tohoku?
October for autumn colour, late April for cherry blossoms and early August for the big summer festivals. Winter is beautiful for onsen and snow, but colder and slower to travel.
